San Telmo was every London vintage shopper's dream. Ok, the vintage clothes were thin on the ground and the ones that I did see were more collectible than wearable. They were beautiful though. It was more the experience of being in San Telmo than the cloths shopping because the streets are living breathing vintage. An experience. Walking through the streets and around the main square was actually like going back in time.
Hand painted signs emblazoned on the door fronts. Enchanting antique shops, bars and restaurants that left me with the impression I had walked into the 1920's. I excitedly told a friend that we should dress up one night and hit the bars in style, he looked at me blankly. I guess I might be one of the few backpackers with a portable wardrobe that actually permits such a fanciful night out and the enthusiasm to match.
We did go to a wine bar one night but in boringly normal clothes. At least we escaped and resisted the terrible trap that hostels present. Their snares to get you out to where they want you, blindly, drunkly pouring more of your travel money into their bank accounts. I've managed to lose the card with the name and details of the bar we went to, it was on Chile street. Black and white tiles on the floor, an old and delicate wooden staircase led to a mini mezzanine, everyone sat at small wooden tables drinking Malbec, deep in conversation. It was a dream. Old wooden glazed windows, candles, strange wooden panelling and cupboards lining the room, the bar all interior details were straight out of time a time warp, or they seemed so through my eyes. I wondered if anything like this ever existed in London, or still does.
The main square one Sunday night was strung with coloured lights and filled with couples dancing tango. It warmed my heart to see an old man in the crowd of dancers weaving around as nimbly as the other dancers, placing each foot down with decisiveness and precision, I wonder how many times he's tangoed in his life? I wish I could tango, it's such a powerful, passionate dance, really captivating to watch. On the otherside of the square the old-fashioned tango crowd were being rivalled by a younger crowd drumming out some Brazilian music and dancing a loser kind of Latin body shake.
In spite of the antiquated feel, San Telmo also offers plenty of contemporary art, graffiti, clothes. I has a young and vibrant feel that exists in harmony with the antique shops and tango halls. We ended up at a rock bar after our civilised glass of Malbec in the 1920's bar. Argentinians really do like rock music.
The residents of Tan Telmo seem to be into anarchy
Some graffiti about the paco addiction epidemic gripping Buenos Aires
San Telmo architecture
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